even more even part turks head knot bracelets 3514

Four part rope bracelets are the next order of complexity up from the traditional three part sailor bracelets and they offer a special design opportunity. The center overlap creates a place to run a colored accent cord through the void in the weave. Because the geometry of the knot has even parts the overlap falls in the actual center not to one side or the other.

Here are some other colors in this same design.
Here is the tutorial showing how to tie four part bracelets.

 15x4x2 weave design with tangerine (a popular color!)

7 1/2" (191 mm) circumference a convenient size for many people

 Purple - mysterious just like the endless knot pattern...

Note that these are 15 bight designs. If you tie an 11 bight design as shown in the tutorial your bracelet will come out smaller. If you increase to 19 bights it will be larger.

Quiz: why does the bight count increase by 4 each time?

 Scarlet - "red is best" and popular!

Almost any color can be used to accent the basic off-white bracelet.

Navy - a traditional favorite color for anything nautical

Available here

These and other unique bracelets can be found online WhatKnotShop on ETSY


design and photographs © copyright 2015 WhatKnotShop

bright blue and green rope bracelet 3332

Amping up the blue with this aquamarine and pairing with a real green takes this popular combination to a new level. Readers of this blog have seen variations of these colors in more subtle blends of teal and lighter less saturated blues paired with softer greens.

This one is brighter, I think it's the aquamarine… a liquid RIT dye color not available in the dry packets.

 Classic 17 part double diamond weave design made out of 3 mm cord.

See this and other blended color rope bracelets here.

8 1/4" (210) inside circumference






design and photographs © copyright 2014 WhatKnotShop

chocolate and cherry cotton turks head knot bracelet 2717

Two nice colors together in a traditional plain weave turks head knot bracelet. The brown color is the stock cord from Darice made with polyester and the red is a custom dye bath made with RIT scarlet dye. The white 3 mm cord is immersed for about 2 minutes. More on the dye process here.

I buy the cord from JOANN Fabrics (always use the discount coupons)

This five part design is started with the brown cord built on a mold in a 17 bight double diamond pattern. The red cord is added once the knot is complete.

Here's a glossary of terms for these knots.

Here's how to add the center strand.

This design is a "medium" size about 7 5/8" (193 mm) inside circumference.





design and photographs © copyright 2012 WhatKnotShop

one button rope bracelet with wood barrel beads 2666

 The one-button design is as versatile as there are materials available...this one is made with 3/16" cotton braid for the framing cords, some bright white nylon braid, and two lengths of hand dyed tan cotton cord.


Tutorial "how-to" click here.

 The center is a row of variegated color but regular shaped wood beads obtained at the store. See the previous post for the latest on DIY paper beads used in these bracelet designs.

The white nylon highlights the warm color of the wood. The tan cords give this a nice earthy color.

Size is a "medium" about 7 1/2" (191 mm) inside circumference.

                         Available here


design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

hardware cloth bracelet with beads 1478

 Conceptual bracelet made with green vinyl coated hardware cloth and red glass beads.


Slip-on bangle style design.

Garden chic, garage fashion, farady cage grunge.

 Glass beads have very small holes enabling the wire to be crimped over to hold them in place.

Could be made to size with 1/2" increments.

Size "medium" 7 5/8" (194 mm) no stretch to this one, it's made of coated steel.






design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

beaded grey suede pillow bracelet 2654

Another variation on the Nigerian design leather toggle bracelets. This one is made with a soft grey suede, a row of clear glass beads and a modified champaign cork used as a button.

This one measures about 8 5/8" (219 mm) inside circumference but it is extremely flexible and soft.

Here's another similar design you might like.

Available here

 Black waxed thread is used to detail the loop and is also used to create the seam. The beads are plain sewn into the seam and then the assembly is turned inside out to conceal the edge of the material.

The cork is glued into place using rubber cement. This is a high-tech shortcut that indigenous creators of the original designs would never have used. They would not have had these finely made glass beads either...artistic license.

Stuffed with polyester batting the loop flap is then stitched closed to form the opening that receives the button.

I call these pillow bracelets due to their oversize profile and soft texture.

More Handmade Artifacts can be found in the Etsy Shop ArtifactSite.

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

blue beaded one button bracelet 2653

 Mixed cotton and nylon cords set off the blue glass beads in this one button design. The framing cords are a 1/4" cotton braid creating a slightly thickened edge.


Size "small" 7" (178 mm) circumference.

 Blue glass beads catch the light.




To see a tutorial showing how to make this type of bracelet click here.

The loop and button detail.


  Available here



design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

extra wide two button ribbed cuff bracelet with wood beads 2644

Here's another cuff made with the edge binding system from cotton cords and a string of wooden beads. The design uses two one button bracelets made with the same colored cords and adds the 10 mm wooden beads in the center.

Read the one button bracelet tutorial here to see how the pieces are made.

In this bracelet the framing cords are 1/4" line which is thicker than the infill cords and creates a series of ribs.

 Here you can see the dimples made by the tensioned edge binding thread.

The wood beads are stitched in between the ribs after the two one-button segments are complete using the thickness of the framing cord to hide the stitching.

Here's a design without the thicker framing cords
two button rainbow bead cuff rope bracelet 2643

I think the ribbing adds a nice definition to the edge of this cuff. The single grey infill cord sets off the more earthy brown of the beads.




Available here


design and photographs © copyright 2012 WhatKnotShop

two button rainbow bead cuff rope bracelet 2643

 This design is actually a pair of one button bracelets made from the same batch of infill color cords with the center seam filled with a row of brightly colored 10 mm glass beads.

This tutorial explains how to make a one button rope bracelet. 

Here are some other designs:
Grey and white one button rope bracelet 2635
Simple one button rope bracelet 2577

 The beads are stitched in using a piece of four ply nylon thread which is embedded in the framing cord at the edges, invisible in these photos though.

Made on an 8" mold this bracelet is about 7 7/8"  (200 mm) inside circumference. There is some shrinkage due to the compression that occurs with the edge binding process.

Measures about 1 7/8" (48 mm) wide.

The loops are made from the framing cord, buttons stitched in place on the gather end of infill cords using nylon thread.


                      Available here.



design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

grey and white one button rope bracelet 2635

This one button bracelet was made from cotton cable cord and two segments of hand dyed grey braided clothesline cord. The construction technique is shown starting with part one of a seven part tutorial.

The heavier braided cord forms a small ridge detail in the center. The edge binding holds this bracelet together with the residual tension in the nylon thread.

 Here you can see the tiny dimples formed by the edge binding thread.

The framing cord in this design is a piece of cotton cable cord which is the same thickness as the infill cords so the result is a low profile edge condition.

 Here you can see the stirrup loop formed by the framing cord.

This is a size "medium" 7 3/4" (197 mm) inside circumference. This was made on an 8" mold and shrunk about 1/4" during the binding process.

                    Available here


design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 7 finishing the bracelet

Finishing:

Here you can see the progress tensioning the cross-binding thread. Each side loop is tensioned in turn against the framing cord and cable tie.

In this picture you can see how to insert the crochet hook under the cable tie. As the nylon binding thread is drawn through the bracelet width will diminish as the infill cords are squeezed together.

 When you have tensioned the cross-binding thread all the way to the end use the extra thread to reverse-stitch back down the opposite direction. This adds some additional strength to the binding and enables you to smooth out any lumps that may have appeared.

Hint: You will want to use the small pliers as the cord fabric will be dense and hard to penetrate.

After you have buried most of the nylon thread use the diagonal cutters to snip off the remaining  nylon binding thread. The reverse stitching will lock the binding thread in place so there is no need for knots or tie offs.

Pop the bracelet off the mold and examine the interior. There should be no cross stitching visible! (practice makes this better)

The finished bracelet will shrink slightly from the mold size due to the compression of the cords during the binding process.

< back to part 6
< back to part 1
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 6 tensioning the cross bindings

 As you work around the mold you will notice that the amount of slack may vary in the center infill cords. To make the fabric come out even place the edge binding stitches but leave them loose with a small loop on each side as shown.

Use your thumb to keep the infill cords flat and even as you place the cross-binding stitches. You may need to crush some of the softer infill cords together to make them fit.

 Here the cross-binding of the infill cords has been completed with everything left in a slack condition.

 Place a nylon cable-tie in the small loops on each side as shown. They will be gradually withdrawn as the loops are tensioned.

The purpose of the cable ties is to hold the small thread loops open so they don't get buried in the framing cords during the tensioning process.

Use a crochet hook or other smooth object like a chop stick to grab the small loop closest to the compressed area. Stretch the nylon thread to compress the infill cords. Start with the first loop and pull firmly to the side.

As you pull on the thread loop the cable tie on the opposite side will hold the next loop away from the framework cord so you can grab it easily.

< back to part 5          forward to part 7 >
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 5 edge binding

Edge binding the infill cords:
Trim off the tails of the infill cords using a heavy scissor or wire cutters.


Hint: I prefer the diagonal wire cutters as these are heavy duty and can clip off multiple cords without fraying or distortion. Find these tools at a hardware store or borrow from your household tool kit.

 It's important to get a clean cut as close to the surface as possible.

Make another two or three crossings spaced about 1/8" apart. Draw the cords together and overstretch the nylon thread just slightly as you draw the thread through the cords.

Nylon is naturally elastic which means the thread will continue to compress the cords after you have placed the binding and drawn it through.


Continue edge-stitching back and forth using the nylon thread and pliers. Each infill cord should be anchored on each crossing. Tension each crossing   and work you way about half the circumference around the mold. Remove the temporary needles as you go.

Here you can see the progress of the edge binding. The heavier cord is positioned on each edge with the thinner cords in the center.

Hint: place an even tension on each crossing to maintain an even shape to the work. 

< back to part 4         forward to part 6 >

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 4 anchor the infill cords

Anchor the infill cords:
Work the infill cords into position as tightly as possible against the folded framing cord.

Place a needle as close as you can to hold everything parallel. Make sure the softer cords are not lost under the others.

Hint: line up the cords by pressing them into place against the mold with your thumb. Work the temporary holding needle through each cord.

Use the original needle and nylon thread to secure the infill cords. Carefully pass the needle through the edge of the framing cord and then the infill cords. Hold the needle at 90 degrees to intersect the cords. Draw the thread through carefully.

Check to be sure you have threaded all the cords together on the first pass. Try to thread through the center of each cord if possible. This will anchor the entire group of infill cords.

Another view of the all-important first pass of edge stitching. Reposition the infill cords as needed to anchor them securely.

Hint: A small pair of pliers is useful for handling the needles during the edge-stitching operation.

Pull on the nylon thread to squeeze the cords together as shown. Check to see that all the cords have been captured by the first two passes. If not...Remove the thread and try again!



< back to part 3             forward to part 5 >

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 3 placing infill cord

Placing the infill cords in the framing cord loop.

Have a look in your scrap bin and find some cord segments with a pleasing color range. We are using a mix of natural white and grey cotton cable cord for this example.

You can use just about anything you may have including fabric scraps, or other bits of stuff. You may also use beads and other objects but we won't cover that in this tutorial.

Spread the framing cords apart on the mold.  Double the infill cords and position the loops as shown on the mold. Cords should be relaxed and even. Each should be long enough to wrap completely around to the other end of framing cord.

Insert a long needle to hold the cord loops in place. Anchor the needle in the framework cord on either side.

You may add or subtract cord segments to get the pattern and color you need.

Roll the mold forward and lay out the cords evenly all the way around to the other end of the framing cords.

Keep the cords relaxed but even.

If you want to add small segments of accent color cords you may do so now. Anchor these with more temporary needles as required to hold them in place.

Place as many temporary needles as needed to position the infill cords and maintain an even tension. These will be removed as the bracelet is edge stitched together.

Hint: dont worry about the position of the temporary needles as long as they are placed perpendicular to the framing cords.

< back to part 2               forward to part 4 >
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop