men's wide ankle bracelet blue black beaded design strata series

 Handmade ankle bracelet Design Strata for men. This example is made from mixed fiber blue, green, white and black cords with both blue and black glass beads. Some edge wrapping with blue cotton floss finishes off this casual anklet.

This piece measures about 9 1/4" (235 mm) inside circumference which is comfortable fit.

 Anklet is secured with two loops and small plastic buttons for easy removal. Water tolerant materials can be immersed without harm.

Cords are laid out on a circular mold and edge bound together using four ply waxed nylon thread. Average width is about 2" (51 mm)

 More designs like these are available in the fiber art section of WhatKnotShop on Etsy.










design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

beaded turks head knot bracelet 2944

 A basic three part turks head knot bracelet that has been built using a center strand of ceramic 3 mm beads. These beads are more subdued in appearance than the clear or colored glass.

The beads are strung on a rugged four ply nylon thread and worked through the center of the bracelet. Check this blog posting to see how the center strand is added to complete the bracelet.

The opaque beads give a more substantial look to the bracelet and match the tan colored cotton cord.

Size for this one is "large" 8 1/2" (211 mm) partly due to the presence of the beads. They don't compress the same way that a center strand made of cord would so the overall size tends to increase.

This is a prototype that can be produced in a variety of sizes and colors. If interested please leave a comment or email.


                    available here



design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

blue and green beaded turks head bracelet 2943

 An ordinary 12 x 5 x 3 turks head knot turns into something sparkly when the center strand is composed of 3 mm glass seed beads.

A two strand knot was tied using 3 mm teal blue cotton cord. The knot was left a little slack as the glass beads are non compressible and need plenty of space to pass through the weave.

 A 48" length of four ply nylon thread strung with the beads was threaded through the center and drawn up to a firm tension so there were no gaps in the bead string.

Here you can see the placement.

The bead string was secured at one end and the cotton cord was worked around to remove slack and even the tension. Then the other end of the bead string was used to stitch the loose ends together.

The results are pleasing with the blue green mix of beads and the blue cord.

These bracelets are heavier due to the glass beads

This is a size "small" to show the concept.

               available here

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

1 button black leather wrapped bracelet with poly clay bead 2931

This is the second in a series of small one button leather cord bracelets. Each has a unique detail that makes it special.

The basic design is four ply leather cord wrapped with a black waxed cotton thread. A 6 mm round wood bead and button connect with a pair of loops to form a secure easy to manage toggle.

This design features a handmade pewter colored poly clay bead placed opposite the button and loop.

 Size "small" about 7" (178 mm)

This design can be made both larger and smaller to fit children, women, and men.

The poly clay bead has an oversize hole to enable all four of the 2 mm leather cords to pass though. This is an example of the versatility of this design. Other custom made beads can be placed singly or in a group to add color and texture.

Here's a 1 button design with 2 small wood beads


1 button design plain (no extra beads)



              Available here

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

Stegosaurus spiked rope bracelet 2766

 Resembling the tail spikes of the childhood favorite dinosaur these polymer clay beads look dangerous but are not very sharp.

The spikes are blunt and flexible. These also look like sea urchin spikes but of course the color is not a match.

The polymer clay comes out like a hard rubber texture after the 15 minute curing in the oven.

Here's another design you might like.

The longer spikes are held apart by small drum shaped beads. The edge stitching pattern secures all the spikes and beads together. Read more about how to make this type of rope bracelet in this tutorial.

This design is made for a larger wrist measuring 8  5/8" (219 mm) inside circumference.

 The infill cords are grey and dark purple. The spikes are "elephant grey"the drum beads are "pewter" both materials made by Sculpey and available in craft stores and online.

The closure is an oversize black plastic button and loop.

                     Available here


design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

Illustration from "Dinosaur Time Machine" 

soft bangle with beads 2660

 Soft cotton hand dyed cord scraps and a few glass beads are used to build this casual slip-on style bracelet. Unlike the one button designs this one is a "squeeze to fit" bangle measuring a generous 8 5/8" (219 mm) inside circumference.

One 12 mm lavender glass bead and five smaller red beads are tightly integrated in the fabric.

This is the latest in a series of similar designs:

green fiber bangle bracelet with beads 1448

cotton fiber bracelet red & orange with beads 468

three new )strata( designs

orbit beaded soft bangle bracelet grey design )strata( 631

orbit beaded soft bangle blue design )strata( 630

Colors are brown, rust, natural, scarlet, with a verdigris accent.







design and photographs copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

beaded grey suede pillow bracelet 2654

Another variation on the Nigerian design leather toggle bracelets. This one is made with a soft grey suede, a row of clear glass beads and a modified champaign cork used as a button.

This one measures about 8 5/8" (219 mm) inside circumference but it is extremely flexible and soft.

Here's another similar design you might like.

Available here

 Black waxed thread is used to detail the loop and is also used to create the seam. The beads are plain sewn into the seam and then the assembly is turned inside out to conceal the edge of the material.

The cork is glued into place using rubber cement. This is a high-tech shortcut that indigenous creators of the original designs would never have used. They would not have had these finely made glass beads either...artistic license.

Stuffed with polyester batting the loop flap is then stitched closed to form the opening that receives the button.

I call these pillow bracelets due to their oversize profile and soft texture.

More Handmade Artifacts can be found in the Etsy Shop ArtifactSite.

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

two button cuff bracelet with black glass beads 2641

 The third in a series of cuffs assembled from pairs of one-button rope bracelets featuring different types of beads. This design is the widest of the three with a center of 12 mm black glass beads. The contrast between the bright white, ecru, and grey fabric and  the solid dark glass beads creates visual drama.

Read the tutorial here showing how to make the one button bracelets.

 The framing cords are 1/4" braided line which creates a solid edge and provides a place to stitch in the beads. The buttons and loops are easy to pop open if you have really big hands, this is a big cuff measuring 8 1/2" (211 mm) inside circumference so you may be able to just slip it on over your hand instead. Here are the other two like this:

two button ribbed cuff bracelet with wood beads 2644
two button rainbow bead cuff rope bracelet 2643

The edge binding makes the cord fabric stiff enough to hold it's shape. The nylon thread keeps a tension on the fabric and you can see the little dimples where it is placed along the edge of the framing cord.


Available soon in my Etsy shop


design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

two part rope bracelet with breads 2642

 This is the simplest turks head knot you can tie, just two parts wrapped around and laid out flat instead of bunched up. This pattern is somewhat unstable as the strands are not naturally positioned as is the case with the three part braid.

The secret is hidden.

Here's a similar you might like design made without beads.

There is a piece of four ply nylon thread placed at each crossing point. This edge binding holds the strands together in a nice parallel pattern and also holds those clear glass beads you see in the space between the parts.

The rope material is a 3/16" braided cord. Notice the overlapping ends also secured with the nylon thread.

Made on an 8" mold this bracelet measures about 7 3/4" (197 mm) inside circumference.

                Available here



design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 7 finishing the bracelet

Finishing:

Here you can see the progress tensioning the cross-binding thread. Each side loop is tensioned in turn against the framing cord and cable tie.

In this picture you can see how to insert the crochet hook under the cable tie. As the nylon binding thread is drawn through the bracelet width will diminish as the infill cords are squeezed together.

 When you have tensioned the cross-binding thread all the way to the end use the extra thread to reverse-stitch back down the opposite direction. This adds some additional strength to the binding and enables you to smooth out any lumps that may have appeared.

Hint: You will want to use the small pliers as the cord fabric will be dense and hard to penetrate.

After you have buried most of the nylon thread use the diagonal cutters to snip off the remaining  nylon binding thread. The reverse stitching will lock the binding thread in place so there is no need for knots or tie offs.

Pop the bracelet off the mold and examine the interior. There should be no cross stitching visible! (practice makes this better)

The finished bracelet will shrink slightly from the mold size due to the compression of the cords during the binding process.

< back to part 6
< back to part 1
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 6 tensioning the cross bindings

 As you work around the mold you will notice that the amount of slack may vary in the center infill cords. To make the fabric come out even place the edge binding stitches but leave them loose with a small loop on each side as shown.

Use your thumb to keep the infill cords flat and even as you place the cross-binding stitches. You may need to crush some of the softer infill cords together to make them fit.

 Here the cross-binding of the infill cords has been completed with everything left in a slack condition.

 Place a nylon cable-tie in the small loops on each side as shown. They will be gradually withdrawn as the loops are tensioned.

The purpose of the cable ties is to hold the small thread loops open so they don't get buried in the framing cords during the tensioning process.

Use a crochet hook or other smooth object like a chop stick to grab the small loop closest to the compressed area. Stretch the nylon thread to compress the infill cords. Start with the first loop and pull firmly to the side.

As you pull on the thread loop the cable tie on the opposite side will hold the next loop away from the framework cord so you can grab it easily.

< back to part 5          forward to part 7 >
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 5 edge binding

Edge binding the infill cords:
Trim off the tails of the infill cords using a heavy scissor or wire cutters.


Hint: I prefer the diagonal wire cutters as these are heavy duty and can clip off multiple cords without fraying or distortion. Find these tools at a hardware store or borrow from your household tool kit.

 It's important to get a clean cut as close to the surface as possible.

Make another two or three crossings spaced about 1/8" apart. Draw the cords together and overstretch the nylon thread just slightly as you draw the thread through the cords.

Nylon is naturally elastic which means the thread will continue to compress the cords after you have placed the binding and drawn it through.


Continue edge-stitching back and forth using the nylon thread and pliers. Each infill cord should be anchored on each crossing. Tension each crossing   and work you way about half the circumference around the mold. Remove the temporary needles as you go.

Here you can see the progress of the edge binding. The heavier cord is positioned on each edge with the thinner cords in the center.

Hint: place an even tension on each crossing to maintain an even shape to the work. 

< back to part 4         forward to part 6 >

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 4 anchor the infill cords

Anchor the infill cords:
Work the infill cords into position as tightly as possible against the folded framing cord.

Place a needle as close as you can to hold everything parallel. Make sure the softer cords are not lost under the others.

Hint: line up the cords by pressing them into place against the mold with your thumb. Work the temporary holding needle through each cord.

Use the original needle and nylon thread to secure the infill cords. Carefully pass the needle through the edge of the framing cord and then the infill cords. Hold the needle at 90 degrees to intersect the cords. Draw the thread through carefully.

Check to be sure you have threaded all the cords together on the first pass. Try to thread through the center of each cord if possible. This will anchor the entire group of infill cords.

Another view of the all-important first pass of edge stitching. Reposition the infill cords as needed to anchor them securely.

Hint: A small pair of pliers is useful for handling the needles during the edge-stitching operation.

Pull on the nylon thread to squeeze the cords together as shown. Check to see that all the cords have been captured by the first two passes. If not...Remove the thread and try again!



< back to part 3             forward to part 5 >

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 3 placing infill cord

Placing the infill cords in the framing cord loop.

Have a look in your scrap bin and find some cord segments with a pleasing color range. We are using a mix of natural white and grey cotton cable cord for this example.

You can use just about anything you may have including fabric scraps, or other bits of stuff. You may also use beads and other objects but we won't cover that in this tutorial.

Spread the framing cords apart on the mold.  Double the infill cords and position the loops as shown on the mold. Cords should be relaxed and even. Each should be long enough to wrap completely around to the other end of framing cord.

Insert a long needle to hold the cord loops in place. Anchor the needle in the framework cord on either side.

You may add or subtract cord segments to get the pattern and color you need.

Roll the mold forward and lay out the cords evenly all the way around to the other end of the framing cords.

Keep the cords relaxed but even.

If you want to add small segments of accent color cords you may do so now. Anchor these with more temporary needles as required to hold them in place.

Place as many temporary needles as needed to position the infill cords and maintain an even tension. These will be removed as the bracelet is edge stitched together.

Hint: dont worry about the position of the temporary needles as long as they are placed perpendicular to the framing cords.

< back to part 2               forward to part 4 >
design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop

one button tutorial part 2 placing the button

Stitch across the folded cords several times. Keep the cord even and the stitching firm.

Lay out the loop you just created on the PVC mold to find out where the button needs to be located. Allow some slack (don't make it too snug).

Attach the button:

Pass the nylon thread up through the folded cord and place through the button holes, then back down through the fold.

Add 3-4 passes of thread to the button. Leave about 1/8" gap between the button and the folded cord to allow room for the loop to fit.


Pass the needle sideways through the folded cord on the last move so it near the inside end of the folded cords. Later you will use this to bind the infill cords using the edge-stitching technique.

Place the completed loop on the mold and position on the button as shown. The loop should fit loosely on the mold. The nylon thread should be near the top of the loop as shown.

Hint: It's a good idea to pre-measure the loop size before you place the button and make any adjustments before stitching the button in place.


< back to part 1        forward to part 3 >

design and photographs © copyright 2013 WhatKnotShop